Lolita Fashion Fabric Guide

Brand

In general, when someone refers to “brand” in lolita, they specifically mean items from the major Japanese brands, which shape the fashion and its shifting trends. Their choices of fabrics and design often set a standard for indie brands and homemade lolita fashion creations to follow. Sometimes jokingly referred to as “burando” in lolita fashion communities or discussions.

“Offbrand” by contrast refers to items being used in lolita, which were not produced specifically for the style.

Coordinate

This term refers to a lolita outfit, specifically due to the “coordinating elements” of the outfit, and how they fit together. Lolitas often shorten this term to “coord”. Sometimes referred to in more mainstream fashion as an ensemble.

Cutsew

A cutsew is a garment which is “cut and sewn” in one step by an overlocker. These garments are typically made of knitted, lightweight jersey materials. Boleros and jackets, as well as t-shirt styled garments are made with this process, and they are worn more casually than a coordinate that uses a blouse.

JSK

Shorthand for “jumperskirt”, JSK refers to a type of lolita fashion dress that typically does not have sleeves. They are frequently worn with a blouse underneath or a cardigan on top.

Mook

Several publications exist in a format that is in between a magazine and a book. In the lolita sphere these include GosuRori Sewing, Gothic & Lolita Bible, and the Otome no Sewing mook series. These publications generally include advertisements for major brands, but also sewing tutorials and patterns. GosuRori Sewing and Otome no Sewing particularly focus on the subject. GosuRori has since been discontinued, but Otome no Sewing continues to be published currently.

You can generally purchase copies of these mooks through quite a few Japanese retailers, including Amazon.co.jp and CD Japan.

OP

Shorthand for “one piece”, OP refers to a type of lolita fashion dress that often has sleeves and a more elaborate design than a JSK. They are designed to be worn as “one piece” without a blouse or cardigan, but some styles can accommodate other means of coordination.

Petticoat

An undergarment used to create the lolita silhouette. This underskirt is normally made from tulle, organza, or voile, and provides a voluminous support for the main garments used in the fashion. Japanese fashion brands will sometimes refer to these as “panniers”, but a pannier in English is a different garment.

Silhouette

The silhouette of a garment can be imagined as a shadow puppet. What shape does a garment take when backlit? Lolita fashion has a fairly distinct shape or outline when you look at the garments straight on. In general, skirts adhere to a bell shape or an A-line shape, but dresses can also use sack or high waisted silhouettes. The common factor in a lolita silhouette is the use of a full petticoat for most styles.

See: Cut (of a Garment)

Taobao

Taobao is a shopping platform based in China. It operates similarly to Amazon or eBay in that each shop is run by an individual, and receives a feedback rating.
Many Chinese lolita fashion indie brands operate their stores through Taobao due to its convenience, so Western lolitas often refer to these indie brands as “Taobao brands” as shorthand. More generic, mass-manufactured lolita items and materials can be found on Taobao, as well.

Appliqué

The process or cutting shapes from material, and then sewing it onto a piece of fabric or a garment. Different techniques can be used to attach decorative elements, including fabric glues, but the most common methods are forms of embroidery.

See: Embellishment

Bias

The bias is any angle that crosses between the grain and cross-grain of a fabric. Most commonly, the term is used to refer to the True Bias, which is exactly 45° angle to the grain. The bias is the point in a non-stretch fabric where it has the most drape and stretch.

See: Cross-grain and Grain

Blend

This term can refer to yarns which are made from spinning a blend of fibres, or a fabric that is made from yarns of blended types. Blending creates a uniform amount of each fibre throughout the fabric, and a more uniform blend of the desired properties of both fibre types.

Collection

A set of designs that are all unified in theme or style. This can refer to finished garments, but also to groups of similar fabrics. A fabric collection often has unified colourways across multiple types of materials, or identical prints in different colourways.

Colour fast

Fabric dyes can transfer to other garments through physical contact, or bleed when exposed to water. A garment which is colour fast does not bleed or rub, or fade when exposed to sunlight. There are varying degrees of colour fastness, and this is often impacted by the type of fibres used for the textile ground.

Colourway

The colour or colour combinations found in a fabric or garment that is part of a series or range of available options. Most fabric designs and garments come in multiple colourways. For example, a print design that uses the same elements on two different coloured backgrounds would have two colourways.

Cross-grain

The cross-grain is the same as the weft, but as applied to a finished fabric. It runs perpendicular to the selvage.

See: Grain and Weft

Cut (of a Garment)

This refers to the style and shape of a garment in regards to how it fits on the body. Different cuts are flattering for different body shapes, but lolita’s silhouette is largely flattering to most body types.

See: Silhouette

Cutwork

An embroidery technique in which the space between the satin stitched sections are cut away to create a negative space of open air. A common form of cutwork found in lolita fashion is broderie anglaise, used to create lace patterned fabrics and trims.

See: Embroidery and Embellishment

Digital print

Digital printing uses large format inkjet printers, which print onto rolls of prepared fabric. Because multiple designs can be printed in short runs onto a single roll, this process is popular for smaller designers and artists, and has led to the creation of websites like Spoonflower and Fabric on Demand.

See: Print and Sublimation print

Drafting

A method by which a pattern is created for sewing. This process can involve drawing out the pattern by hand, or using computers.

Drape

Drape is how a fabric falls or hangs when sewn or pinned in place. A fabric’s drape is related to its hand and is dictated by fabric’s fibre type and weave.

Draping is a method of pattern drafting, in which fabric is pinned to a dress form directly.

Embellishment

The additions of surface elements to a garment or fabric. This can mean using additive techniques such as embroidery or appliqué, or refer to finished trims and treatments such as lace, braid, or button choice.

Embroidery

A method of surface decoration in which threads are sewn into a variety of decorative patterns. Embroidery can be executed by hand or machine, on finished garments or fabric. There are also methods which use ribbon instead of thread, for a 3D textured effect. Beads, sequins, cutwork, and appliqué techniques are often worked into embroidery designs. Embroidered tulle lace trims are particularly common in lolita fashion.

See: Cutwork and Embellishment

Fibre Content

The materials that comprise the yarns in a woven fabric are referred to as the Fibre Content. They can be synthetic or natural materials, or even blended fibres.

Fibre Weave

The pattern of yarns in a fabric is referred to as its weave. It consists of the over-under patterns created by the warp and weft during weaving.

Finishing

Techniques used to create special effects or on a finalised fabric. These include both additive techniques (appliqué, embroidery, printing) and subtractive techniques (burn-outs, cutwork), as well as chemical processes (such as waterproofing).

Float

The threads of the weft which create a pattern in a woven fabric. They pass over, and therefore cover, clusters of the warp thread (or vice versa) in a way that creates a sequence and visible pattern.

Ex: A plain weave fabric has even float yarns, while a jacquard fabric has varied floats depending on the end result.

See: Pattern weave

Flocking

A process by which short, monofilament fibres are attached to the surface of a fabric or object using adhesives, to create a soft, bristled texture similar to velvet pile. The fibres used to create this effect are themselves called flock.

The process of applying adhesive for this finishing technique is very similar to that of screen printing.

Foil

Foiling is a process by which a non-fabric material is added to a fabric using different adhesive measures. Some foils are glued to the fabric similarly to flocking or screen printing, while others use heat to fuse the foil surface to the fabric with pre-cut adhesives or special dies.

Foil can be metallic, transparent, or holographic, and can be used as an accent for other embellishments, or as the main design element by itself.

Grain

The grain is the same as the warp, but as applied to a finished fabric. It runs parallel to the selvage.

See: Cross-grain and Warp

Ground

The “background” of a fabric, which covers a few meanings:

1) the base fabric on which a design has been applied (in the form of a print, embroidery, appliqué, or other embellishment) or

2) the yarns on which pile has been attached separately for fabrics such as faux fur.

Hand

The hand of a fabric is the way that a fabric feels when you handle it. It refers to how the material drapes, whether it is crisp or smooth, and a number of other factors, such as weight and texture.

Leno Weave

Sometimes referred to as "gauze weave" or "cross weave", leno is a parttern of weaving in which the vertical warp yarns are twisted around the weft yarns. Warp yarns are often arranged in alternating pairs, with one yarn being tightly twisted, while the other is left looser, to create an organic, variagated texture.

Manufactured fibre

Any fibre that is not found as-is in nature, but processed from another material before being spun or twisted into thread. Rayon or acetate are good examples of this type of fibre, as they are made from processed plant cellulose found in bamboo, woodchips, and other sources.

See: Natural fibre and Synthetic fibre

Muslin

While this is a type of fabric made from cotton, it also refers to the first test fits or trials of a garment pattern. The name comes from the fact that cotton muslin was often used for these mock-ups. It is also common to use scrap fabrics from previous projects for this purpose.

Also sometimes called a toile.

Nap

Nap is the raised, often fuzzy surface of a textured fabric such as faux fur, velvet, or faux suede. It has a distinct direction that the fibres align, so pattern pieces need to be carefully aligned in the same direction on the bias so they match well.

See: Pile

Natural fibre

Any fibre that is use with minimal processing from its natural form. Silk, wool, and cotton are good examples of this type of fibre, as they cleaned and spun with minimal processing. Many fibre guides include some manufactured fibres as “natural” because they still come from plant-based sources (such as rayon or acetate).

See: Manufactured fibre and Synthetic fibre

Pattern

When sewing, you frequently use a pattern to prepare your fabric. A pattern is a printed or hand-drawn diagram that guides how to cut the material to sew it together. There are commercial lolita patterns available, but many sewists prefer to create their own based on what they see in the fashion.

GosuRori Sewing, the Gothic & Lolita Bible, and Otome no Sewing mooks all are good sources of inspiration and patterns for sewing lolita fashion garments.

Pattern weave

Technically any fabric that is not a plain weave is a pattern weave. Pattern weaves create a different surface by varying their sequence of over-under interaction between warp and weft.

See: Plain weave and Float

Pile

Fabrics such as velvet or corduroy have a pile, which consists of loops or strands of yarn that stand upright from the ground of the fabric. The pile of a fabric will have a directional nap.

See: Ground and Nap

Plain weave

A plain weave fabric is a material in which the warp and weft overlap one another in an even, regular manner. They alternate 1:1 in an over-under pattern to create a smooth, even finish.

See: Pattern weave

Print

Printing is a type of surface decoration which has many different types and techniques. The most commonly used in lolita fashion include digital printing or sublimation printing, and screen printing.

See: Digital print, Screen print, and Sublimation print

Right / Wrong side

Fabric has a “right” side (the side which faces outwards on a finished garment) and a “wrong” side (the side that isn’t visible on a finished garment). The right side usually is the surface to which embellishment and finishing techniques are applied, because it is the side most visible when worn, but some fabrics will have finishing visible on both sides (such as check fabric, which shows its pattern on both sides).

Satin weave

Satin weave is a particular pattern weave which creates a satin finish fabric. It relies on the right side having the weft more visible than the warp.

See: Plain weave and Pattern Weave

Screen print

Screen printing is a method of surface decoration in which fabric inks are applied to the garment through the use of a screen and a flat squeegee. Screens can be prepared through the use of various processes such as photo emulsion and UV exposure, or hand-painted resists. The openings in the resulting screen allow the fabric ink to transfer through in a smooth and even layer to the material, creating the design. Screen printing is commonly used for t-shirts or large, singular designs, but can also be used to create repeating textile prints.

See: Print and Flocking

Selvage

The selvage is the “self-finished” edge of a woven fabric. It is typically woven in a plain pattern more tightly than the main body of the material, to provide a stable edge that will not fray or unravel.

Sizing

A compound or chemical mixture applied to warp yarns to stiffen them during weaving. Helps to prevent distortion during processing and finishing. Some materials are de-sized during finishing before sale or use, but some retain their sizing for convenience.

SKU

SKU stands for “stock keeping units”. It’s a method of managing inventory that varies by brand and even store in many cases. In the case of fabric sales, most SKUs will pair with a barcode, and refer to the colourway and type of fabric being sold. Different colourways within the same collection of fabric will often have sequential SKUs. If you’ve ever purchased cut fabric and were handed a slip of paper with a number on it beside the amount of fabric you purchased, that number was very probably the fabric’s SKU.

Fabric care instructions on fabric bolts and rolls generally are located close to the SKU for convenience.

Slub

A yarn defect, where fibres are looser and create a lump or knot.

A soft, knobbly section in a woven cloth’s surface.
Slubs can be created by weaving a yarn that is not uniformly smooth throughout, or by finishing a fabric by abrading small sections so that they loosen and create a small knot or lump. Slubs create an organic texture, and are used in a variety of fabrics.

Sublimation print

Sublimation printing is a similar process to digital printing in that it uses large-format inkjet printers, but the design is first printed to a specially treated roll or sheet of paper. The design is then transferred from that paper to the fabric through the use of heat. The heat causes the ink to convert to gas and bond with the fibres of the fabric.

This process of printing is more permanent than digital printing, and results in brighter, more saturated shades. It works better with synthetic fibres than cottons, and is beginning to gain popularity with smaller run printing firms.

See: Digital print and Print

Swatch

Swatches are small pieces of fabric that serve as a sample of the larger material. Some lolita brands used to give out small swatches of their dress fabrics for customers to use in washing tests, to avoid damaging their finished garments.

Synthetic fibre

Any fibre that is made through processing and refining a different material. Examples include polyester or nylon, which are processed from petroleum products originally. Most synthetic fibres share a lot in common with plastics. Their strength is that manufacturing allows them to be incredibly uniform.

Fibres that come from plant-based sources are often referred to as semi-synthetic or manufactured.

See: Manufactured fibre and Natural fibre

Thread

A twisted or spun grouping of fibres used to sew pieces of fabric together. Different types of thread can become very specialised: there are threads which are designed specifically for machine sewing and hand sewing, or even creating button holes.

It is best to pair your material and your thread types (eg: sew silk fabrics with silk thread, cotton fabrics with cotton thread) to prevent any shrinking differences or puckering during maintenance of the finished garment. Thread is sometimes also used to refer to the warp and weft yarns of a fabric after the material has been processed.

See: Yarn

Twill weave

Twill weave is a particular pattern weave which creates a diagonal wale. It relies on the right side having evenly visible warp and weft yarns, in a sequence that creates small right angle groupings on the bias.

Wale

A diagonal pattern created along the bias woven fabrics. Twill is an excellent example. Multicolour wale arrangements are used in herringbone and houndstooth weaves to create their distinct patterns.

Warp

The warp consists of the yarn fibres which run the length of a fabric as it is being woven. It runs parallel to the edge and perpendicular to the weft.

See: Grain and Weft

Weft

The weft consists of the yarn fibres which run the breadth of a fabric as it is being woven. It runs perpendicular to both the edge and the warp. It is technically the weft which creates the pattern of a weave, as it is manipulated during weaving between the yarns of the warp.

See: Cross-grain and Warp

Weight

Fabric weight is used to describe the general thickness and density of a fabric. To calculate the weight of a fabric, a standardised measurement is used (in the US this is one square yard, in other countries, it is one square metre), and then weighed.

The weight of a fabric is expressed as ounces per square yard (oz/yd^2) or grams per square metre (g/m^2 or gsm).

Worsted

Worsted is a type of yarn used to produce fabrics both woven and knit. The yarn is created using straight, parallel fibres that have been combed before spinning. It has a regular appearance without slubs, that results in a somewhat coarse texture. Worsted yarns are used in some twill weaves, including gabardine.

Yarn

Yarns are the threads used to knit or weave a fabric. They are usually spun or braided in some fashion to create a single, continuous piece of thread. Yarns are comprised of different types of fibres, and the different treatments used to spin and prepare them will dictate the final fabric’s hand, weight, and appearance.